April 26


Our little trio was stepping out of the shelter area at 6:50 am this morning. We knew we had over 12 miles to cover and the Ranger had told us it was the most challenging section in the Smoky Mountains.

The first miles of the day were deceptively easy. By mid morning, however, the real climbing began. Remember that every steep climb up in elevation is matched somewhere else with a steep decline. For me, the downhills are harder than the climbs.

The good part of it all is the reward waiting at the top! We stopped on the top of Rocky Top and sang the song while we soaked in the view. The sky was perfect and clear and I could see forever. Way off in the distance were the waters of Fontana Dam. It was hard to believe that I had left there just yesterday morning. Another climb put us on Thunderhead Mountain, with its grassy areas and limitless view.

Another highlight of the day for me was the birds. They seemed to sing all around us as we walked throughout day. This morning as we walked in the early light we startled two owls who began calling back and forth to each other. One was very large and was sitting in a tree right before us. After eyeing us for a long time, he swept off through the woods to a more remote perch.

The miles ended with a long pull up to the Derrick Knob Shelter. This was one of the spots I had stayed in in my shake down hike in March. The last time I stayed in this shelter it was 9 degrees with high winds. Tonight we are expecting rain that will continue in some form for the next several days.

I can't wait to see my family and take a day at home. Last night I could see the lights of Maryville from my spot in the mountains. It was really hard to be so close yet so far away and out of touch. I haven't had phone service forever. Just two more days until I'm there.

April 25

I woke up to someone shaking my sleeping bag. Highlander was up already and it was time to move. We packed and headed out at 7 am with the first light. The trail follows the top of the dam all the way across, and then cuts up into the park.

The rest of the day was spent climbing up. The trail today started at about 1,700 feet and climbed to close to 5,000. After a hike of about 11.5 miles, I am in a shelter full of tired people. Tomorrow our goal is a shelter about 12.5 miles from here. It includes some steep downfalls, which might really slow me down. The down grades, especially when mixed with large rocks, are a big challenge to me.

Several interesting things happened today. We have been hoping to see a bear but as yet have seen nothing. Several times we have seen fresh evidence, but no bear. Today, we once again saw fresh signs a bear had been close. We continued walking and a few moments later another hiker caught up to us and let us know that we had walked right under the bear as it lay watching in the tree above us!

Tonight is to go below freezing. I am already in my bag, because the air is sharp.

Good night, everyone.

April 24, 2013

While I am in Fontana I am staying at the Fontana Hilton! Before you jump to any strange conclusions, let me tell you about this wonderful facility. Fontana Dam is a large TVA project dam generating hydro-electric power. The AT passes right over the top of the dam and begins a long climb into the Smoky Mountains. On the south side, not far from the dam sits the "Hilton". It is a trail shelter built to hold 20 people with two levels. Outside there is a gravel patio with a view of the lake and even some benches to sit on. Up the hill about 200 yards there is a bathroom with a built in shower. Overall, these are deluxe accommodations for the trail.

Tonight there are 17 bodies snuggled into the place; 3 female hikers, 13 males, and one big black dog. It's raining, and cold is settling in around us. People are cooking dinner, swapping stories, sharing food supplies, and preparing for tomorrow. One hiker is carrying a can of salmon to open and eat when he reaches Maine. Others are telling stories from the trail and people they have met. One hiker has boiled a dozen eggs and is passing them around. All of us are ready to launch out in the morning. A black snake has just crawled in out of the rain.

So, Welcome to the Hilton!

April 23

At 6:30 am I stirred and started packing. We slipped out of camp a short time later, leaving the others at the campsite sleeping. It was less than six miles to Fontana, but we wanted an early start to have time in the afternoon for laundry and shopping.

The highlight of the day was the changes that took place around us as we came down in elevation. I had been hiking at elevations of four to five thousand feet where the nights were cold and very little green was to be found. As we came down to lower elevations we were suddenly surrounded by spring. The world went from brown to green and flowers started appearing all around us. It was like a special gift sent out to welcome us.

Fontana Dam is a huge TVA project from the past. It created a beautiful lake and recreation area in the midst of the rugged mountains. The AT trail goes right over the top of the dam and then enters the woods once again with a long uphill climb into the Great Smoky Mountains. In the next few days I will walk from my current 1,700 foot elevation to peaks over 6,000 feet. I guess for a few days it will be back into winter! It will be fun to walk into spring once again.

April 22

We were on the trail just after 7am and headed for Jacob's Ladder. We had no idea what to expect. We stopped for breakfast at a road crossing that marked the beginning of the "ladder" section. The rest was uphill, and uphill. Then more straight uphill. It was an experience to be a part of. Difficult, but doable. A week ago I could not have made it.

The rest of the day was pleasant hiking. I did fall once on a bad downhill step, but walked on undamaged. I continue to struggle with rough downhalls and rock climbs, but I'm trusting it gets better as I lose weight and gain experience. Each week I find myself better prepared to face the day. I'm also working on trusting myself and relaxing as I hike.

We finished up at Cable Gap Shelter, a hike of about 10 miles. We are in position to hike the six miles into Fontana tomorrow in plenty of time to shop, get clean, and resupply. The shelter is full of young hikers who are doing big miles and having a good time. As I write, everyone is busy cooking supper and telling stories. I'll try and post a picture for the flavor of the experience.

We all smell so bad. I can't wait to get a shower and laundry tomorrow.

April 21

I woke this morning just a little after 6am with my first thought being that this was my 41st wedding anniversary! I dressed and packed my gear as quickly as I could. I have no phone service at all in these mountains, but Johnny often does. My plan was to get packed first, then borrow his phone for an anniversary wake up call. It worked! At 7am, Susan answered the phone and sang the Happy Anniversary song to me. A great way to start the day!

As for the rest of the day, it was the most challenging climbing day yet. We did more elevation today than ever before and much of it was straight up. It was worth it, however. The views were glorious and the sky was clear. We could see forever! Christ Bald was exceptionally beautiful. After an impossible climb we broke out onto the grassy bald at over 5,000 feet. Below us and for as far as we could see were mountains and valleys and rivers. Robins were hopping around the bald and the air was cool and fresh. It couldn't have been more perfect.

Tonight I am camped on a ridgeline at close to 4,000 feet. I can see the lights of homes and Towns off both sides of the ridge. The wind is blowing hard across the ridge, but it is not supposed to freeze tonight. I have reached mile number 150 on the trail. That puts me about 15 miles from Fontana Dam and the start of the Great Smoky Mountains.

Happy Anniversary, Susan. I'm sorry I couldn't be there.

April 20

Last night we had stopped in a shelter soaking wet and cold. Everything was wet from my head to shoes. We knew there was a frost warning, but had no idea just how cold that could be above 5,000 feet! The wind blew into the open end of the shelter all night. It also blew up from underneath us through the floorboards. All three of us spent the night shivering in our bags.

I woke up this morning to find my shoes completely frozen. The laces wouldn't budge. The shoes were completely inflexible and my feet could not begin to get inside. The result was that I hiked the first miles today in my Crocs, which I carry along for stream crossings and camp wear at night. It worked better than I expected. I tied my shoes around my neck and walked until mid morning, when my feet finally could slide into the icy openings. By mid afternoon everything was dried and warm.

It was a beautiful day to hike, but I struggled most of the morning and early afternoon. The trail was over six miles of downhill, often with large rocks and roots to manuver. My legs turned to jelly and I was exhausted by the concentration that was required. I rejoiced when we finally arrived at the Nantahala Outdoor Center. We had desended from about 5,300 feet to 1,700. After a quick resupply and a cheeseburger for lunch we began the long uphill pull out of the NOC. The trail just keeps climbing up for miles and miles. We have come over 3 miles up the grade and tomorrow have a lot more to go, including the section known as Jacobs Ladder. If you remember your Bible, that was the stairway that went up to heaven. Oh, Boy.

I am settled in my tent. This is a hard day for more reasons than the challenge of the hike. Tomorrow is my 41st wedding anniversary, and I'm a little blue about not being home. My mother has also been diagnosed with cancer and it's hard to not be there for her. She will apparently start radiation treatment in the next week. I wish I could be there for everyone, but I can't. I'm glad to know that God can. Watch over us all tonight, God. Thanks.

April 19

It's almost 8am and I'm still in my bag! The strong cold front that was to come last night is just now moving in. Our plan is to wait here to let the dangerous winds pass and then hike on later in the day. It is frustrating because I am begining to feel that push to get home to visit. Last night I found we are in range to get local Knoxville radio. I shouldn't have listened because it only increased the homesickness.
*****

Ok, it's now 6:30pm. The day started out windy and wet and never really changed. We started out a little before 11 am. At least an inch of rain had fallen, but we were confident the worst was passed and were eager to get going. What followed was the worst day I have experienced yet.

The rain was intense and steady. The trail was a river, and where there was not standing water there was soft worked up mud. The greatest challenge, however, was that my glasses fogged up constantly so that at best I could only see right in front of me for my next step.

We struggled along through the constant storm. My companions were very kind to adjust to my slower speed. By 3:00 pm we had come a little over 5 miles and had just finished a long climb. Our goal for the day was still about 5 more miles. The decision was made to stop for the night, try to recover from the rain damage to our gear, and set out again early in the morning. That keeps us on our original schedule, but we were hoping to pick some extra miles.

Tonight there is a freeze warning out for elevations above 3,500 feet. We are certainly beyond that and are preparing for a cold night. It's so exciting to be moving closer to home. Every day, every mile, every step is one step closer to people I love.

Goodnight Lilly Goosefarmer, wherever you are!

April 18

I woke up this morning in a fog. The clouds had desended around us and rain was still sputtering around my tent. We packed up and headed out looking for water. There was supposed to have been a spring near us but we could not locate it. We pressed on for three miles to the next water source and there we stopped for our breakfast.

The weather forecast is calling for some nasty storms tonight with dangerous high winds. We have stopped early so that we can weather the storm in a shelter instead of our tents. Our location is Cold Spring Shelter at mile 125.6. The result has been a restful evening with plenty of time to cook supper and visit before bedtime. For those who don't know, a shelter is simply a three sided log lean to with a platform floor to spread out sleeping bags. Tonight's structure is small with only room for four or five bags.

It's now 7:30 pm. Highlander and Johnny Walker are rolled up for the night. We are sharing the shelter with Chief, a young guy just out of high school who is taking a year off to hike and do some other things before he heads into college. An Eagle Scout, he did his Eagle project working with a disability ministry in his home town. Small world.

It feels strange to be so removed from everyone and everything. I wonder about people I love and events that I know are going on. I have missed the Special Olympics this week, something I have enjoyed doing for years. It's always a great outting with my Civitan Club friends, handing out the medals in the awards circle. It's also been a great way each year to interact with the residents of Riverwood as they compete. I hope the weather was fine and I know that everyone came out a big winner.

The wind is picking up and the storm is rumbling closer. I pray for all the hikers out in tents tonight or still on the trail.

April 17

This morning I said goodbye to Franklin, NC, and jumped aboard Ronnie Haven's famous shuttle to be dropped where I had left off, Winding Stair Gap. I headed north on the AT and immediately enjoyed two beautiful waterfalls and stream crossings. Some hikers had camped at the second crossing and waved with sleepy smiles as we hiked through.

Spread across the trail this morning was our first snake. We were unsure as to what kind of snake he was, but he was very sure he didn't want to move for us, so we carefully stepped over him and went on.

The highlight of the day was our very first bald, Silers Bald. A bald is simply a large cleared grassy area found on the top of a mountain. No one is really sure why or how they are there. Some think that perhaps Indians used these areas to grow crops. Some think the soil will not support trees. I did hear someone suggest that perhaps people sneak out at night and pull up any young trees before they get a chance to grow!

The reality is that after a hard climb through the deep woods you suddenly step out onto this wide open green grassy field. Johnny, Highlander, and I ended up stretched out on the grass watching the clouds roll by over us.

After we finished there we hiked another 4 miles or so toward Wayah Bald, where we now lay in our tents in the rain at about 5,300 feet above sea level. Our camp tonight is literally in the clouds! Storms rolled in on us this afternoon and we spent the last hours hiking in the rain. There is nothing to do, so I have been curled up in my sleeping bag since 6pm staying warm and dozing between storms. My little tent seems to hold in the wind, so I just hope this blows over and clears before morning.

Laying here gives me lots of time to think about what I'm doing and why. I hope that this hike is helping people to grow aware of the massive unreached people group right in our own community, the disabled and special needs people and their families. I hope that somehow what I am doing will open doors of opportunity to them. It would make every hard step of this trip worthwhile.

Well, goodnight to all. The days ahead pass through some rugged and high mountains and some deep remote Valleys. I have little hope of having any phone contact or resupply for a number of days so will just move ahead holding my thoughts in my heart. I hope that all of us are Blazing New Trails in some way this summer.