June 20, 2013

Nine o'clock found me boarding the Marion shuttle bus. I paid my 50 cents, and in less than 15 minutes I was strapping on my pack and headed north. My first goal was a shelter about 7.5 miles ahead. The trail did some climbing in the early miles, then descended down to follow a stream for miles through the woods. Without any real sense of purpose, I crossed back and forth over the swollen flow. Most major streams on the AT have some form of "bridge" in place to help in crossing. These range from secure eagle scout project bridges to a log put across the span.  The trail today, however, chose to let you rock hop across each time.  I have come to enjoy this. My walking sticks keep me balanced. As a worse case, I can always change into my Crocks and wade across. I've only had to do that once.

I arrived at the shelter in the early afternoon. It was located next to the stream, a lovely but damp and dreary setting today. I kicked off my shoes and socks (and ankle braces), settled back for lunch, and pulled out my trail map.  It was too early to stop for the day, but there were only limited options ahead for camping. I aimed for a tent sight another seven miles ahead on the other side of Atkins, VA.

The next five miles were completely different then my morning travels. The trail climbed out of the water shed area and opened up into rolling hills and pasture land. I was headed for interstate 81 at Atkins, where the trail crosses under the highway and to the west for a time.

The day was perfect. The only negative has been my ankles. Every step brings pain.  By the time I walked into Atkins, I was hobbling once again. There was no way I could continue on to my camp site. So, one more time, I am checked into a motel resting my feet.

I am trying to figure out what to do. It's only about ten days until I come off the trail for the convention. That will give my ankles a week of rest. I don't want to lose any of the days before that, but can't make much progress when I break down after just one day of hiking. Susan has encouraged me to seek wisdom and completely stay off my feet for tomorrow. I can't hide the fact that im frustrated. Somewhere there is a lesson in this for Phoenix.

June 19, 2013

It is very frustrating for me to sit watching a pretty day go past without hiking. My mind knows that my ankles are needing the break, but my spirit wants to move on.

My day has been a combination of relaxing, planning, and communicating. My feet are doing very well in the blister and skin department. My knees have enjoyed the rest as have my ankles.  The left foot is the point of concern.  I never know when I step forward whether it will hold or collapse on me.  That makes me favor it, which ends up causing the right foot to grow tired and ache by the close of the the day.

It is exciting to find that the message of Blazing New Trails continues to grow.  I just found out that the blog site has people from 23 states and 7 different countries following the hike and hopefully growing with me in the passion of the hike's purpose. That's encouraging news to me.

In the morning I will take a shuttle bus back to the trail and continue my journey. For those of you who do not know, my hike will take another twist in early July.  I will be picked up off the AT and transported to Louisville, KY. There I will hike through the downdown streets to the convention center where the North American Christian Convention will be taking place. Joining with me will be people with disabilities and other special needs friends. We will be hiking through the convention area and into the main hall for the start of the convention. We want people to see and understand the importance of this community. During the week I will be at a "campsite" in the convention center, sharing about my hike and the important reasons behind it. When the week is over, I will be back on the AT.

It all keeps happening step by step. Each step forward brings me closer to my destination and goal. That's how I've traveled from GA up to southern VA. That's how we will see the world changed. I hope that my little steps will somehow challenge others to begin taking a few steps of their own.

June 17, 2013

It's Monday. Yes, it is raining!

Last night it rained through the night, but had spent itself out by the morning. I started down the trail at 7 am, with the trees dripping rain and the trail dark and slippery. The morning saw a few short spells of showers, but also featured another slip and hard twist of my left ankle.  This is the third time that this ankle has completely given way on me.  Both feet get tired from the trail and the tendons are very tender after a day like yesterday. The left one is a step beyond that, however, and has never fully recovered from the first twist.

My goal was a shelter 15 miles from last nights resting place. With the pain and slower pace, I pulled up at Dickys Gap and hitchhiked a ride into Troutdale, a tiny town where a small church operates a hostel for hikers. The pastor, Ken Riggins is great, as is his wife, Mary. The hostel is simple and clean, with the added touch of genuine love.

The rain is now pounding down. I am grateful for this hostel shelter tonight. I never could have reached the shelter on the AT tonight with my foot. Tomorrow is another day, and it will take care of itself. For tonight, I rest safe and dry.

Coming into Troutdale allowed me to meet several very special people. The man who gave me the lift into town shared about the loss of both his parents. Mike is "hiking" the trail and spending a few days here working. He has been hiking the AT for two years, working for weeks at a time to finance his trip. You might call him homeless, but I think he is much more focused than that. Pastor Ken and his wife Mary are true trail angels, pouring themselves out to the travelers who pass through. Last of all, I met Tina, a woman visiting her sister here in the community. The nearest store is four miles from here. (Troutdale is a very small place) The pastor dropped me off at the store and left me to hitch a ride home.  Instead I encountered Tina, who was helping her sister run the store.  Tina sat me down off my foot. She helped me shop and put together a hot sandwich to go. When all was ready, she loaded me into her truck and got me back to the hostel. I marvel how a stranger can receive so much kindness.

I'm ready to drift off to sleep. The thunder is booming and rain pounding against this little shed out behind the church. 

I didn't take a single picture today. I kept my camera in the pack wrapped in plastic because of the rain.  I will include several pictures of the blooms I saw the day before crossing the Highlands. It is wonderful walking north into spring! It's hard to believe summer is almost here.

June 16, 2013

At 11 am today I walked into the Wise Shelter, rolled my pack onto the ground, and began to do, "The Dance!" Lucky for me, I was alone. It was definitely a time for celebration. According to the AWOL Guide to the AT, 2013 edition, Wise shelter sits at exactly 500.0 miles from the trail's beginning on Springer Mountain in GA!

If someone had been giving good odds in April I might have been tempted to bet against myself reaching this point! Now, here I am.  A little battered and worn, but still on the trail.

Today is Fathers Day. It has been tough, mentally, all day long.  I miss my dad, but even more so I'm missing my family.  It's so frustrating not being able to at least hear their voices on the phone. I've been dreaming all day how much fun it would be to have all of the family together after the summer. For now, I hope that I have some voicemail messages waiting for me when I get to town.

I started my day early from the Thomas Knob shelter, on Mt Rogers. I was excited about seeing the horses that everyone had stories and pictures about.  Don't worry, I was told, "You will see plenty of horses. Especially if you are out early."  Mile after mile I walked. I saw plenty of evidence that the horses were there, but never any sign of one, near or distant.  It was a major disappointment.  Other hikers continue to show me pictures on their cameras of their playful encounters.

What was exciting today was my hike through the Highlands.  In spite of my missing the horses, the views were expansive and the wide open sky refreshing. I passed a rock formation called "Fatman Squeeze," but apparently walked right through it without knowing!  Maybe that means I am now below fat man status!

Leaving Wise shelter, I push on to the next one 6 miles away. It should be an easy distance, but the trail is so tough that it takes me all afternoon. It is six miles of bolders piled across the trail. Every step has to be thought through and many of the rocks are moss covered or wet from underground streams.

It is close to five o'clock when I arrive at my destination. I've only covered 11 miles today,  but my feet and ankles are worn out. I pulled off my shoes, both pairs of shocks, and ankle braces and begin to doctor my feet. I was still blue inside, missing my family and pondering another night alone in camp, when I heard the tapping of walking sticks on the rocky path. It was Eric, a through hiker from Knoxville. In a short time he was joined by seven other young, strong hikers tired from their 23 mile day and ready to set up camp.

My day has closed surrounded by the life and conversation of this group of young hikers.  Instead of being alone in the shelter, it is packed with bodies and one dog. Instead of being the last man on the trail, for one night at least, I am joined by others all with the same purpose and direction as I. Together we all agreed, it has been an awesome 500 miles.

June 15, 2013

I'm settled into the Mt Rogers Shelter for the night. The 12.5 mile day took me over two major mountains, the largest of which is Mt Roger.  It happens to be the highest point in the state. It should be cold enough tonight to have the sleeping bag zipped tight with me down inside it.

The day was perfect in so many ways.  The only down side was the rocky trail, which slows me down and puts the pain to my ankles.  I was excited, however, to be headed towards the Grayson Highlands where I will see the wild horses and some beautiful overlooks.

One of the days high points (no pun intended) was my climb up Whitetop Mountain to Buzzard Rock.  The climb tops out at about 5,200 feet and involved several of those rocky scrambles that I "dearly love." Once again, it is the reward that makes the climb. The trail ends up at Buzzard Rock, overlooking the whole world below. Even though it was still fairly early in the morning, I kicked off my shoes and socks, dug my feet into the soft grass of the mountain bald, and rejoiced at the pleasure of being there. I was joined by a group of grown up brothers and their sons who were out for an annual Fathers Day weekend camping trip. It was fun watching the different personalities interact, but it also made me homesick for my own boys..

My surprise for the day came at the shelter this evening. There I met a couple from Beckley, WV, Sunshine and Nonnie, who where up for the weekend.  A friendly conversation turned into an evening of fellowship as we shared together from our lives and faith.  I have crawled into bed tonight encouraged, grateful, and with a future invitation to have lunch further down the trail.  My first food connected Trail Magic!

I find it is really true that the mental part of the hike is the hardest.  It is so easy to be up and pumped about being on the trail, and before you can catch yourself you can be down. I have found that it is important to stay focused on the goals and reasons I am out here.  Negative thoughts and feelings of failure can roll over like waves, but the reality is that I am out here and moving north.

Time to sleep. I've got a date with a herd of wild horses in the morning!

June 14, 2013

The Virginia Creeper Trail is a bike path that attracts close to 200 thousand people each year. It runs from Abingdon, VA to a spot almost 40 miles away in NC, with the town of Damascus as its half way point. The AT travels along the Creeper as it moves north out of town, and intersects it several times after that, adding the dimension of a river walk and tressel bridges to the days hike.

The Creeper began years ago as a roadbed for a small gauge railroad and now is a cinder foundation for family fun and exercise. It added just the right amount of variety to make perfect this near perfect day.

I was up and out by 7 am, headed into a perfect weather day.  I strolled out of town enjoying a phone call home and then soon set to the business of climbing back on the trail and moving north.

By the end of the day, I have reached a shelter 15.6 miles away. The air has been moving and fresh, the times on the bike trail different and enjoyable, and my feet have made the distance without major complaint. I am sharing the shelter with one hiker and millions of insects which are swarming around the screen of my phone as I write.

One of the lessons I am slowly learning is to take each day for what it is and make the most of it. I have been laboring under the pressure of being behind my schedule. By doing so I have been losing some of the joy each day brings, and perhaps missing some of the best things going on around me. That doesn't mean I stop trying to do my best. It does mean that I do all I can, see all I can, learn all I can, and be glad for all I've done.  A year ago I struggled to walk five miles in the park. Today I hiked over 15 miles in the woods, saw beautiful sites I have never seen before, and now am settled in a mountain shelter ready for a good nights sleep.  And I want more?

I pray before this summer is over that I learn a lot more about being truly content. That is the path of the Phoenix.

June 13, 2013

The feet are still not ready. As bad as I want to move forward, I have got to be able to wear my shoes and walk. I'm so glad I have along my Crocks. I can shuffle around in them while the blisters heal and the swelling goes down.

I called back to Wildcat in Maryville for some advice on foot care. Where did I go wrong? After talking to him I'm not sure I did anything wrong as much as I missed a few tricks that might have helped me avoid disaster. The point now is to get back to healthy. 

Basically, the plan is to get my feet up, give them a good rest and plenty of air. As of tonight, the swelling has gone down considerably. The raw blisters look and feel much better, and I am encouraged.

Tonight I am staying at The Place, a basic hostel offered by the Methodist church in town. Today it's the only place in town that had a bed. The thunderstorms have pulled people off the trail to dry out (like me), and the town is full of bike riders who have come to ride in this wonderful setting.

A day like this is good to have. I am learning that nothing is really wasted. I've met new hikers, learned some new things about myself and the trail, and got caught up with my personal business. I think that my feet are also ready to slide into my shoes in the morning. I am ready to move on.

Up ahead?  The Mount Rogers area including the Grayson Highlands. There wild ponies roam and play games with the hikers as they walk through. Who knows what else the next days will bring.  That's part of the excitement of being on the trail. 

June 12, 2013

This is a great little town. It is built around the hiking and bike riding culture, and full of visitors like me every day. Unlike most places in America, there are no chain stores or fast food establishments. (There is a small Dollar General, but no McDonalds!) Outfitters, B&B's, eateries, drug store; all are home grown and family owned.  Its strange to be in a place with more bicycle shops than gas stations!

The day has been filled with all the normal requirements of a resupply day. I have nursed my feet and seen some improvement. My gear has been hung out, turned, and dried.  My shoes spent the day in what sun I could find, with the inserts pulled and laces open wide. All I can say is they are better than yesterday!

Some have asked what I think about and do while I am alone all day.  Simply put, I walk.  It often takes a great deal of my concentration, physical effort, and breath.  There are times I sing. More than once I have come around a turn in full voice to find a group of hikers staring at me.  Andy Frazier made up a song sheet for me that I often refer to. Most of the time, unfortunately, I just fill in my own words when I don't remember the real ones. 

I do remember friends each day.  I pray for people I have met and others I have left behind.  I pray for and remember each day my special friends with disabilities. There are times that I also get silly and let my mind go in crazy directions.  One day I held a long debate with myself about whether flies ever got lonely and did they miss home when traveling.

One of my growing passions is to see something special come out of this hike for the disabled and special people of this world.  That also includes the millions of parents and families who love and care for them. A few days ago I walked on 6 tenths of a mile on the AT that has been made Handicap Accessible. It was beautiful. Built just a few years ago, a spot had been chosen near a state paved road. The trail was widened and covered in cinders for wheelchairs and graded for an easy push. It lead out onto an open bald meadow with a panoramic view of the mountains all around. I was choked with tears.  Here was a community who cared enough to make sure that everyone who wanted could experience the beauty of the trail. (The two pictures are just part of the view from that section.)

I thought again of our churches, which have a mandate to share the good news with the world and yet continue to turn a blind eye to that entire segment of society that are "different." Instead, the church is called to reach out to "the least of these" with a special effort.  By not doing so, we hold back hope to this unreached group and the families around them.
How many handicap people in wheelchairs actually have used that section of the trail? I don't know.  The point is that they now can, because somebody cared.  How many people with disabilities or families raising special need children are in your area of influence?  You will never know unless you build a trail that allows them access into your world and life.

This summer I'm out Blazing New Trails to make us more aware of others who would love to see some of the glory we take for granted.

June 11, 2013

The storm blew and pounded the shelter nearly all night long. Sometime in the early morning darkness it passed and only the breeze continued to shower down the left over drops from the trees onto the metal shelter roof. I was up at 6 am, dressed in my wet things and ready to go by 6:45. My only concern was my shoes and socks, which were still completely soaked from the last two days of rain. My feet didn't look good last night when I took them off, and I worried about 10 more miles on my water soft skin.

My hike started in the clouds. It was so thick the trail was visable only for a short distance ahead. It wasn't long, however, until the sun burned away the cloud and set up the perfect day. The trail was wet but walkable. The breeze continued to blow all morning. Best of all, I was finally headed into Damascus!

Damascus has always been one of the goal spots on the AT. The trail finally crosses into VA just 3.5 miles before the town (I stopped there for a big celebration!) and then comes down the mountain and right into town. The whole town is trail friendly and feels like an oasis to a hiker. I strolled down the main street, walked into the Blue Blaze Cafe, dropped my pack in a corner, and ordered the hiker special; a big greasy cheeseburger with fries!

The only shadow to this perfect day is my feet. I stopped several times on the way to town to work on them, but my efforts were not successful. Tonight they are swollen, raw, hot, and have multiple blisters. I have made it all this way without even a hint of foot trouble, so I guess its time to experience that also.

The hostel I am at, Hikers Inn, is the perfect place to be. Paul is a former thru-hiker in 2010, and his wife, Lee, is the best. I've already received a large batch of encouragement and information that will help me keep on the journey.

Goodnight everyone, from my comfortable and dry bed in paradise.

June 10, 2013

It rained all night. By morning my sleeping bag was wet along with everything else I am carrying. I dressed and packed in the rain and started off down the trail. My immediate goal was the shelter 4 miles ahead where I was headed last night. The rain settled into a thankful drizzle as I began to fall into a steady pace. I began to feel optimistic about the day.

The forecast called for morning showers and thunderstorms followed by more thunderstorms in the afternoon. I began to think that I might escape the morning drenching. No way. Mid morning the skies opened up and the water poured from the clouds. I was still a distance from the shelter and already soaking wet from sweat, so I didn't bother with rain gear.

I think that rain is one of the hardest trail realities for me. I have struggled in the heat, paniced in the still lifeless air, and felt penned in by the dark covering of the forest. Rain, however, has the ability to suck away my hope. It's like a trigger that opens a chamber of discouragement inside of me.

The big test came when the trail intersected with a state road. My guide book told me there was a dinner and country store just 2.5 miles down that road. There was also a hostel nearby to escape this liquid misery. I knew that someone would give a ride to a desperate backpacker. No one would blame me for stopping. No one but me. That was the moment I realized that the hike was about dealing with all the events of being on the road. I crossed the road and headed back into the wet, humid, path.

Today I saw my first deer. It was standing on the path facing me as I walked north. It was big, looking at me eye to eye less than 30 feet away. We had a long quiet look at each other before he walked off the path. I have stopped counting the snakes I see along the way, there are too many to remember.

In the end, I reached the shelter and pushed on another 8.3 miles to the next one. That puts me only 10 miles from Damascus. Tonight the storm is pounding down around me and the wind is shrieking around the three sided shelter. My sleeping bag and gear are wet and cold, but how glad I am for a place out of the storm! I feel sheltered under the wings of God.