June 9, 2013

I laid awake through most of last night.  The hiker next to me in the shelter had chosen to sleep with his feet at the end with my head.  He kicked in his sleep, and I was often caught in the movement!  In addition,  it was too warm to keep my sleeping bag zipped closed, but the mosquitos were aggressively feeding on any exposed body parts. The result was that by 6 am I was glad to get up and get out! It also left me exhausted and discouraged for the day.

The trail is beginning to open up and slowly start a long slide down into Damascus.  Even so, it seemed that most of today involved long elevation gains, sometimes with steep trails that didn't even appear in the trail guide.  There was no breeze stirring all day today.  The humidity was very close to 100%. I couldn't keep my glasses from fogging and everything I have was wet. (To give you an idea of how still the air was... A butterfly flew past my cheek and I could feel the air moving from it's wings!)

The day was slow going for me.  I began tired and the heat and humidity drained what little I had left. I was still moving ahead, however, and had for my goal a shelter that was still 4 miles ahead. Thats when the rain and thunderstorms cut lose. I managed to find a spot along the trail, get my tent up, and settle in without major damage. Instead of making 14.5 miles today, I had to settle for 10.5.

I am now sitting in my tent with the rain falling steadily around me. The forecast is for almost 100% chance of rain and storms through the night and all day tomorrow. I am about 21 miles from Damascus and should cruise in there on Tuesday, unless the storm really messes me up. Tonight is my chance to get a good rest because the wet trail and rain really drains me.  It's all working together, and all is well.

June 8, 2013

I was back on the trail by 8:45 am, thanks to the John Marr shuttle service. My trail began today at Lake Watuaga. I am crossing into territory now beyond were Highlander was able to travel. The trail is a sea of mud floating on top of a hard packed layer of clay. It makes for slippery travel. The air is thick and the sweat rolls off my head, my arms, and my beard.

As the morning passes, the trail climbs away from the lake and begins to dry out and become more rocky. The morning is spent climbing, but the rest of the day the trail rides the ridges up and down. I believe it stays this way for most of the miles into Damascus. That gives me hope for the days ahead.

Tonight I am sleeping in a full shelter.  There are six of us packed into this small lean-to, but there is cheerful conversation, and a mutual excitement about reaching Damascus. My plan is to travel 14.5 miles to another shelter. There is an almost certain call for thunderstorms tomorrow afternoon. Some here are heading 22 miles to the next shelter beyond. I will feel good to get to mine by evening.

The next few days should give me an opportunity to see how I can do on a more moderate trail.  I hope the rain doesn't interfere with the journey. It's time now to sleep, so the adventure can continue!

June 7, 2013

This morning started with loading my pack into the car and starting out to my dropping point.  Through the miracle of cell phone, a message came to me from my daughter, Rachel. "I'm pushing!"  John had been trying to get me to consider taking one more day to rest the ankle.  The night before it had buckled again on the stairway.  I was, however, eager to get moving. 

The text added weight to the idea of staying one more day. So did the raging rainstorm that was pouring down as we drove, and was to continue for the day.  The choice was made, and John turned the car around.

Time showed it was the right choice.  The extra day seems to have made a difference with the ankle.  The rain is to lighten up for tomorrow.  Best of all, I was able to be a part of the birth of Alice Jean Beatty, my 16th grandchild. With texts, phone calls, and pictures,  I felt a part of the excitement of her delivery and first day of life. I wouldn't trade it for anything!

After a day being, CyperGrandpa, I spent this evening enjoying the delightful real grandchildren of John and Yvonne. Their energy and smiles sealed the day and added to the aura of the whole experience.

Sometimes the unexpected changes create the most lasting memories. As eager as I am to move ahead, I will never forget the hospitality of the Marr's, the excitement of being able to share in Alice's birth, and the blessing of an extra days rest.

June 6, 2013

Today a memorial service was held in Scotland for my hiking partner, George Grant. I knew him best by his trail name, Highlander. A part of his ashes were scattered on the mountain trails of Scotland in an area he greatly loved. He had worked there in a hostel serving others and enjoying the beauty of the place. He spoke of the birds that would come and feed on the deck and the pleasure of walking the trails in the area. The rest of his ashes will be taken to Austrailia, a place he now considered home. They will be scattered into the ocean currents to continue to travel and explore God's beautiful world.

Ironicly, I have just completed the miles of his AT journey.  Today I have stopped to rest my ankle completely and will begin again at the very spot where his journey ended. I have known I was close to that place, but now I know for certainty. It pleases me to think that his last days of hiking were filled with the beauty of waterfalls, challenging mountains, and senic views.

It is time for my journey to move on. As the John Denver song says, "He lost a friend but kept a memory." Highlander liked to walk behind me on the trail. He was always talking. It might be sharing part of his life's story. It might be asking questions about mine. He was often gently teaching me the ways of the trail and how to walk it. I can still hear him today saying, "learn to go over the rocks, not under them. Remember the high road gets there before ye." Now he walks a different trail, and I continue on my own. He took the high road and has finished his hike. I will try to walk the high road before me and will always keep the memory.

My hurting ankle reminds me of just how fragile and uncertain a thru hike can be. The other part of our trio, Johnny Walker, is a far more experienced and prepared backpacker than I.  He is now off the trail, however, because an old leg problem made it impossible to continue walking. With every step and every day there is no way to know what is ahead.  Every day becomes a gift to enjoy and give thanks for. Isn't that the way we all should live? In a real sense, every one of us is on a trail. 

June 4, 2013

I woke to the sound of the swift flowing stream passing right outside my tent.  I had no idea what time it was, because the dense growth blocked the sunlight from making an appearance. Up, packed, and away by 7 am, climbing and desending through the dark humid tunnel. Most of the day passed this way.  There were a few surprise views that suddenly broke through. Mostly, however, the day was spent on soggy wet trails, or crossing many small streams, or walking under deep shadows. The last few miles of the day found the trail more normal and the sky visable once again.

By the end of today, I had covered 13.5 miles. I had hoped to go farther.  On paper, the section I was traveling looked easy. In real time, it was much slower going. My ankle and knee continue to be a problem, and each step involves some level of pain. I hate the idea of resting them. I feel like I've just started to feel the rythum of the trail again.

I am spending the night in Kincora Hiker's Hostel. It sits on a little backroad about three tenths of a mile from the trail.  The place is owned by Bob Peoples, who is famous in trail circles for his hours of work as a volunteer on the trail and his love of all things AT. He simply asks for a $5 donation and provides a rustic bunk area and shower in exchange.

I have a motive for being at this place tonight.  Until now, I have had only pieces of information about Highlander's death.  My hunch was that if anyone would know the details, it would be Bob. My hunch paid off. Not only did he know the details of Highlander's passing, but they had met and talked just the day before his death. His last hike was the next ten mile section that I will complete tomorrow. I had known the general area he was in, but now I realize I have reached his point of completion.

It is way past hikers midnight as I write this. Tomorrow should be a very special day.

June 3, 2013

It was a luxury to get another shower this morning before I got back on the trail. John drove me back to my access point with the AT before heading to work himself.  We took the time to grab a Hardee's breakfast on the way and I was on the trail before 9:30.

It felt good to be hiking again, although I fell and smashed my knee against a rock in the wet mud early into my day. I also twisted my ankle again in a fall.  It seemed fine at the time, but has grown painful and a little swollen as the day has progressed. I think a good nights sleep will do the trick to get me rolling in top form.

The trail today went past two waterfalls. Jones Falls is just a short side trail off the AT and was worth whatever effort it took to get there. It comes cascading down from above you and powers its way past you with a roar.  The second falls today was not as impressive, but it poured down right across the trail.

The entire afternoon was spent walking through tunnels of thick rhododendron. The rich black soil was churned into thick mud and the sun never pierced through the dense covering. I kept looking up to check the clouds but could never see more than a few patches of sky.  At one point, a young hiker going south asked me how long he had until he was out of this jungle swamp. "Never," was my only reply.

I am camped alone tonight along side of a rolling little stream.  The water is running quickly by, just a few feet away from the door of my tent. I managed to travel about 11.5 miles today and I hope I am in a position to cover some longer distance tomorrow. Meanwhile, I am hoping that my knee and ankle recovers during the night. The next two days look good concerning rain.  After that, it appears that storms will  follow after me into Damascus every day.
Time for lights out. I've got to get to sleep and be ready for the sunrise.

June 2, 2013

This morning I enjoyed a rare sleep in.  I slept until 8 am and then played lazy until almost 10, when it was time to get to church. I got to share about my journey and Blazing New Trails with the adult Sunday School, and was later introduced to the church during the morning service.  Boone's Creek is great place. I enjoyed it and was refreshed by being there.  They have about 14 families attending with special needs children or adults and are actively seeking ways to expand their work in that area.

Following church I made a pig of myself at a family style Mennonite restaurant. It was BBQ ribs and turkey with dressing surrounded by bowls of every side dish you could imagine.  I rode home with my dessert to enjoy later!

Next came the resupply visit to the store, followed by the usual routine of packing my food for weight and space, getting laundry finished, and refilling my supply of water.  The rest of the day has been a relaxing visit with my hosts.  John and Yvonne Marr have a real gift of making you comfortable and the day has been perfect.

I am excited about getting back to the trail in the morning. The heavy storms that blew through today should be past.  There will be rain this week, but I can't wait to move on into Virginia.

I am enjoying seeing all the aspects of my journey beginning to develop. My hiking is getting into gear.  I have enjoyed meeting with others and sharing about my mission.  I am overwhelmed at the interest and response from those of you who are following my trip.  Sam McGhee, who keeps my blog, has told me there are over 4,000 of you that are reading my story.  That is humbling.  It is also exciting and encouraging to me and the future outreach to the people with disabilities.  Thanks for all your encouragement and prayers.

June 1, 2013

I'm spending the night with two good friends, John and Yvonne Marr. I have been a guest in their home several times in the last years and it is both comfortable and familiar.  John is on the staff of Boone's Creek Christian Church, where I will attend tomorrow and share about my hike.  On Monday, John will deliver me back to the trail to pick up where I left off.  After that it's steady traveling into VA.

Looking back over this past week, I can see some changes that have taken place in me. The early weeks hiking with Johnny Walker and Highlander were vital in building in me a foundation of skills and experience that were needed for me to stay on the trail. My time with them created memories that will always be a deep part of this hike and my life.  Even walking alone, I find myself saying, "Boys, I'm looking for a place to take a break," or, "Let's get this dogfight OVER!"

During this past week, however, the hike has taken on a new dimension.  I am applying the skills and advancing on the trail with a new focus.  Being alone has given me some much needed time and space to deal with the losses and process my purposes for being out here. I am enjoying the short encounters that do take place at campsites or along the way.
Highlander committed himself to walking with me to at least Harpers Ferry.  My Dad was excited about the hike and one of the last things he said to me was, "You are going right through Harpers Ferry!"  Johnny continues to follow my travels and stays in touch even though his injury keeps him off the trail. In a way, all three continue to be a part of my hike. Now I am out to discover the next level of what it means to be Phoenix this summer.

May 31

After yesterday, I didn't think anything could out do the beauty of what I have experienced. I had finished the day by crossing Little Hump Mountain, which was the most spectacular thing I had experienced to date on the trail. I camped for the night in Bradley Gap, ready to tackle this last and highest of the balds connected with the Roan chain.

I was up and out of Bradly Gap before 7 am, eager to get this Hump Mountain thing over with. I had no idea what I was in for!  The mourning was shrouded in thick fog, but a strong breeze would hopefully drive that away with the sun's appearance. Unlike every other day, the trail came out of the gap, into a large green meadow of grass, and proceeded to go straight up the mountain and into the waves of fog and cloud.  Hump Mountain is well above 5,000 feet and towered above me in the thick moving mist.

The trail guide states the the mountain has many "false summits" as you climb.  How real that was climbing in the morning mist.  A large formation of rocks would be visable in the shadows, rising up in this steep meadow of waving grass.  I would reach it only to find the trail moving on even higher and steeper. I moved upward, climbing over 1,300 feet up in this expansive, open grassland still covered with cloud.

As the clouds began to thin and lift, I could begin to see more and more of the world around me.  I was on top of that world, which started with the grassy meadow around me and expanded, with the disappearing cloud, to include a panorama of breathtaking proportions extending for hundreds of miles in every direction!  As I neared the top, I found I could go no farther. I dropped my pack and fell beside it in the thick grass, completely overwhelmed by the beauty around me.

I could have stayed on the summit for the rest of the day.  The fog and cloud completely disappeared and the world woke up into a perfect day.  The sky was a vivid blue with small white bursts of cloud blowing through in their travels.  The wind blew fresh and strong across the open mountaintop, moving the grass in a waving chorus.  The moving clouds rolled waves of shadow across the wide expanse of mountain scenery that surrounded me.

I ate my breakfast on a rock with a view that a king couldn't purchase.  I wondered around the grassy heaven trying my best to absorb every view. I cherished the fact that this may have been one of the last mountains that Highlander experienced before his heart attack. I sang to myself, gave thanks to God, and only regreted that I did not have someone else with me to share it all with.

It was time to move on.  I was only traveling about 7 miles today, headed for Mountain Harbor Hostel for a much needed resupply and shower. The trail crossed over the expansive meadow and plunged once again into the dim light of a mountain path. I exchanged the waving soft grass for rocks and roots and mud below my feet.  After a time, it all seemed like a dream.  A beautiful dream.  One I shall never forget.

There was one other milestone to the day. Ever since the Smokies I have been walking in this vague uncertainty of where I really was. The AT moves back and forth between the NC and TN state lines, sometimes walking with one foot in each state. It seems to go on forever, with Virginia still a distant dream.  Today I crossed into Tennessee for good, with Virginia less than 70 miles to the north. I should be in Damascus next week!

May 30, 2013

I overslept this morning!  It was after 6:30 when I woke, but I was still on the assent before 7 am.  Ahead of me was the last 1,000 feet that would take me to the top of Roan Mountain. This last section was much harder than yesterdays.  The trail was up, without any helpful switchbacks for most of the way.  When I did get to the summit there was little to see.  The highlight was using the visitors restroom, refilling with real water, and getting clear of my trail trash.

If Roan Mountain was disappointing, the rest of the day more than made up for it.  I came down into Carvers Gap to find a beautiful day and kind people. A couple took my picture and loaded me up with bottled water.  I lay down on a grassy patch, snacked and drank my water.  I had no idea that the afternoon was going to be so challenging and rewarding.

As the trail moves north from Carvers Gap, it passes over a series of balds, with their grassy tops offering great  views of the entire region. My afternoon was spent crossing from one to another, with plenty of time used for picture taking and soaking in the memories.

I've ended my day at Bradly Gap, sharing a campsite once again with the couple from Germany.  I got in a little before 7 pm, hiked down to get water, set up camp, ate dinner, hung my food bag in a tree, and was in bed by 8 pm.  We were all worn out from the day.

Today is my parents' wedding anniversary. I tried all day to call my mother, but never did get a signal. It is also the last part of the trail that Highlander covered. I enjoyed thinking that he saw such beauty near the end. I sense both my dad and Highlander with me on the trail.  Both talked with excitement about Harpers Ferry. I have a feeling we will walk together in spirit for many more miles of the way.