May 16

My friend and trail companion Highlander has died. I received the devastating news this morning from his family. I don't know what to say, but it hurts. I have spent my day trying to adjust, but I still haven't even dealt with my dad's death.

I'm going back on the trail tomorrow. Its the only thing to do.

There are some great people here in Hot Springs. Hikers Ridge Ministries has a great drop in spot in town. There Queen Diva passes out home made cookies and lots of love. Around the corner her friend dishes up a great strawberry milkshake along with practical encouragement and a listening ear. Mike took time to sit down and talk, and the day ended with a meal at the community center.

Thanks for the comments from everyone. I wish I had a way to respond to each of you. Right now, the best I can do is keep walking.

May 15

Last night was warm for the first time. I set up in a camping spot right next to the trail and found myself taking layers off instead adding them on. I was awake and ready to start the day by 6 am, and walked out of my campsite about 40 minutes later. One short climb and it was downhill into Hot Springs. I walked into town about 9 am, dropped my pack at the Smoky Mountain Dinner, and stuffed myself with eggs, bacon, and ice tea.

The little town is busy. There are hikers waiting here for transport to Trail Days in Damascus, VA this weekend. Section hikers and other tourists wonder around. I finally secured a room and began the process of cleaning up and resupply.

I might stay here an extra day. I am still weak from my giardia experience, and wonder if an extra day of rest might make the difference. Looking back, it might have been wise to give myself another day or two at home before starting back. On the other hand, I needed to get back in motion and focus if I was to continue.

I have seen some crazy things along the trail. One of the list toppers is the privys built at the shelters. By law, these must be torn down and rebuilt to be wheelchair assessable. So... in the middle of nowhere, on a difficult trail that winds through the mountain wilderness, you will find the remains of the previous privy piled next to the all new, enlarged, wheelchair size new privy. I know that my hike is to raise awareness for special need, disabled peoples. What this says to me is that we can't rely on the "cookie-cutter" solutions of government programs to care for this part of society.

The time is now for the church to step forward and personally get involved with the special needs community. It is sad to think that our government is trying to build handicapped privys in the wilderness, when churches continue to find loopholes and make excuses about the little things that would make these same people welcome in their buildings. I am growing more passionate every day about the real needs of this unreached people group.

May 14

Today is Susan's birthday. I went to sleep thinking about, and I woke up thinking about it. My plan was to pack and leave my campsite early, and hike out of the gap and up onto the next mountain to surprise her with a phone call. I put my plan into motion, leaving before 7 am and climbing hard to get a signal before she would leave for work. My plan was sound, but a phone signal never did develop. I spent the rest of the day trying again and again, but without success.

My second plan was to push into Hot Springs and make a call tonight. It just didn't happen. I ran out of water and steam by mid afternoon and finally had to give in and set up camp.

In other ways the day was fairly uneventful. There were no scenic views or outstanding experiences to make note of. It was just a day to hike. I've heard this kind of trail described as Mud (meaning "meaningless ups and downs"). Views or not, it felt good to be on it.

I did see another snake on the trail. It was laying in wait along the side, hoping for a little mouse or critter to come running past. Good thing I had my shoes on. I bet my big toe would have made a great snack.

I continue to hike alone. Today I only met two hikers who passed me swiftly by. I am clearly out of the main stream of thru hikers. There are a few late starting college students, but most older hikers have gone on before me. I am enjoying the solitude, but it feels funny to pull up and camp alone. I'm looking forward to Hot Springs tomorrow in the hope of connecting with other hikers.

Today I was thinking about my friend Don, from Riverwood. He wanted me to think about Galatians 6:2. Great verse. When I get back I'll share some of my thoughts with him.

Goodnight, Susan. Happy birthday! Goodnight all.

May 13, 2013

It was cold when I woke this morning. I knew it because I found myself curled into the depths of my sleeping pad with the top pulled closed over my head. The trouble is that you will never get to Maine in a sleeping bag.

The down part of sleeping in a tent is packing up when it is raining or really cold. Your sleeping bag gets stuffed into its sack, compressed, and shoved down into the bottom of the pack. The under pad gets deflated, rolled up, and stuffed into its sack. By this time your hands are freezing! At this point, you pull the stakes on the tent and begin to stuff it into the carry sack. It is damp and cold and never wants to fit into the sack it came in. Once done, everything can be put in its place, the pack closed and straps tightened, and you are ready to hit the trail.

I like to hike for a while and then stop for breakfast. This has become for me two packets of Carnation Instant Breakfast, French Vanilla flavor. I mix it with cold water and drink it down. It is like a watery milkshake that gives me 300 calories and plenty of water to start the day.

Today was Max Patch. This is another grassy bald, only on steriods! It was more than I could have dreamed. The sky was clear and the views went on forever. I stayed as long as I could, soaking in the views and the majesty of the place. The wind finally drove me off the open summit and down once again into the woods.

The path today was gentle. I crossed several flowing streams and enjoyed a wide variety of flowers. I stood for a long time admiring a beautiful bird sitting very near me on a branch. He was solid deep red over his entire body, with jet black wings and tail. His eyes were also a jet black mask. I wish I knew more about birds. I know that some of you are smiling right now at my ignorance. I will say he was amazing to watch!

My day ended at 10 miles. I am tired, but not overly so. I am glad, because tomorrow promises a few more elevation challenges. I am less than 14 miles from Hot Springs, NC. My original plan was to hike 10 tomorrow, and then walk into town the next morning. If I'm feeling good, however, I might just push into town tomorrow. The AT goes right through the town, which should be a real experience.

That's all for now. It is supposed to go below freezing here tonight, so I am sleeping with my water filter. Should be fun!

May 12

My day started with my family. Laura and Susan were both awake and up by 6:30 am to spend a few last minutes with me and to say goodbye. My drive started with my brother, Bob. He asked to take me to my dropoff point so Susan could get to work and he and I could spend some time together. My hike began at Standing Bear Hostel, were I had come off the trail nine days before.

The trail started with a five mile climb that took me on top of Snowbird Mountain. There I found a large grassy bald and panoramic views. I felt welcomed back to the AT!

I ended up covering 10 miles today. I am still very weak from my episode of giardia. I am finishing up the medication treatment, but the bug really leaves you weak and in a fog. You can bet that I will be treating all my water from now on! The trail today was kind, and I'm now curled up in my tent at Brown Gap. Tomorrow I start out with another long climb that will bring me to the top of Max Patch, another large and beautiful bald.

It was very different hiking alone today. I am out of the bubble of hikers I knew, and there are not as many on the trail around me as before. It did give me some great time to think and work things through. One of the songs I like to sing talks about God as one who "gives and takes away." The reality of that is illustrated by my father. He was a gift to me for over 60 years. I learned so much from him and enjoyed being with him. Now he is taken away, but not the gift. I still have all the good he bestowed on me. So I can truly say, "Blessed be the Name of the Lord."

In a small way, Highlander was also that kind of gift, as well as Johnny Walker. For a month they were there as I learned the ways and routines of the trail. Now they are gone, but the lessons and the memories remain. I miss them both and hope that one day we will meet up again.

It is Mothers Day. While on Snowbird Mountain my phone worked for just a few minutes, then cut off. I was able to call my mom, and my Susan. Then the signal was gone! Go figure?

One more thing. I did pick up another funny nickname today. I hike with this bright blue shirt and often wear a similar color headband. Add to that my greying beard, sunglasses, and smile... This guy came down the trail toward me yelling, "it's Papa Smurf!" I've got to get a different shirt!!!

Good night, World! It is good to be back!

May 11

I want to say thanks to everyone for their support and expressions of love to my family during this past week. My father passed on Wednesday and the family gathered for a private time of remembrance and thanksgiving. My dad was truly a great individual and guide, and I will miss him.

I am starting back on the trail tomorrow (Sunday) morning. My brother is driving me back to mile 240 where I will pick up the trail. I should be in Hot Springs by Wednesday and move on from there.

It is hard to say goodbye and walk away again, but I am also excited about continuing my journey. I think that it will also be good for me to spend these next days alone, processing the events going on in my life.

I'll see you along the trail!

May 6

I wanted to post an update for those of you who are following my journey.

When I started out last month I knew that one of the challenges of my hike would be leaving both of my parents at a critical time in their lives. My father is 94, and my mother 92. My dad even spoke about the possibility of our not seeing each other again. They were both, however, excited about my hiking the AT, and very proud that I was doing it for a cause.

How was anyone to know that within a month my dad would be passing? At this point, that event could be hours or minutes away. There is no question that he is ready to face death. The issue is letting go of him. He has been my hero and earthly guide for over 60 years.

Thanks for each of you who have cheered and watched my hike thus far. This is the hardest mountain yet. It will be climbed just like all the others, with a victory shout at the summit. Because of Dad's faith and mine, even death is covered in victory.

May 4

A month ago today I was dropped off at Springer Mountain in Georgia and began the most unusual journey of my lifetime. Today, I walked out of the Smoky Mountains, 240 miles from where I started. It feels like a long way until I realize that it is just a little over 10% of the total journey. The walk has just begin.

I have been so fortunate to have shared this first month with two very wonderful people. Johnny Walker joined up with me just a short way into the adventure. It was hard to see him stop this week due to leg and back pain.

Highlander (George) has been my constant companion and friend since my first step on the trail. His experience and positive encouragement have kept me on track during some of the early, tough days when I wondered what I was doing. He is far beyond me in ability and physical condtion, but has chosen to stay and keep us a team.

Tonight, as we walked into Standing Bear Hostel, I knew I needed to call home to check on things. Once again, with a borrowed phone and using a certain "spot" on the hillside, I was able to reach Susan. The news she gave me was that my Dad was dying and I needed to come home.

A special thanks to my sister in law, Debbie, who drove around for hours to find me on a lonely dirt mountain road. Thanks to her I am at home tonight and will see my Dad tomorrow morning.

Thanks for all of your prayers. At 240 miles, the hike is on a temporary hold for a few days. Highlander will continue his hike, unhindered by my speed and limitations. I will miss him greatly when I get back on trail, but am pleased to know he is advancing strongly northward. He is one of the finest people I have ever known. I will never forget him. "Forward McDuff!"

May 2

Today started differently. Instead of being the first up and pushing out at sunrise, I stayed snuggled down in my bag while others packed up and moved on. I was only traveling 8 miles today, and enjoyed a slow breakfast, packed carefully, and was on the trail by 8:00 am.

I've met so many interesting people on the trail. Yesterday I met a man from the Knoxville Civitan Club. Today we had a long talk with a couple from Oregon who have come to hike in the Smokies. On the trail every day are people from all over the states and around the world.

Today was the shorter day I needed. The highlight of the day was borrowing a phone and getting up with Susan. My dad has shown some improvement, and it was a great relief to make contact once again.

On the path today was the wreckage of an airplane that went down in the mountains years ago. There were also spectacular views from the mountaintops. This is a remote part of the park and I think the most beautiful.

Let me share just one story about Blazing New Trails. As I understand it, the residents at the CCDM Riverwood Campus have been talking about my hike. They know that I am somehow doing this for them. One of the residents, my buddy Frank, got excited last week about my hiking. When the staff came into the office the next morning, they found a dollar bill taped down on the desk with a note saying this was a donation for "the old man's hike." I consider it a prize donation, a widow's mite that will go a long way.

Time to sleep. Tomorrow is to be another 13 mile plus day.

May 1, 2013

The morning treated us to a beautiful sunrise. The valley spread out below us was sheathed in white billowing clouds. Above us the sky was ablaze with color and light. Highlander and I slipped away from the shelter at 6:50 and began our day.

It was a day of clear, stunning, mountain top views. Many of our miles today took us along the high ridge edge of the mountains, giving us breath taking views of the rest of the park. Our goal today was the Tri-Corner Shelter, 13 miles away. That would be the longest distance yet for a day hiked. The trail looked straight forward on paper, with a few high altitude climbs over 6,000 feet.

Tonight I am bedded down in the Tri-Corner Shelter. It took me till almost 7:00 pm to get here because of my trouble with downhills. My ankles have been very tender and I struggle at times with my balance. Some days the only thing to do going downhill is slow down and move carefully.

I've started carrying some butter with me to add oil and fat to my diet. Tonight I tried it with a packet of rice and found that it also greatly improves the taste. It was a night I cleaned the pot and feasted on a Little Debby Apple Pie. It is one of the rare nights I have been satisfied.

Tomorrow I have planned an easier day, only about 8 miles. That will allow some needed rest and a later start in the morning. It also sets up a resupply the next day at Standing Bear Hostel.

It is so hard being completely out of touch with everybody. I don't know how my Dad is and have no way to find out. Not only can I not call home, but they have no way to contact me. I have put it all to a higher power!

Meanwhile, I keep hiking. Its why I'm out here.